Sunday, May 22, 2011

Iraqi Kurdistan II

Erbil
The capital of the Kurdish autonomous zone was my last stop in Iraq. Erbil is around for over 7000 years. In the years following the war in Iraq Erbil has partaken heavily on the economic success of the Kurdish autonomous region. The economic power and high safety compared to the rest of the country helped to establish a certain share of foreigners in Erbil.
While in the city center, a conservative lifestyle is practiced (a Turkish friend asked me: "How do you like the Kurdish women?", my answer: "I haven't seen many women.") Ainkawa, the suburban town in which most foreigners live, provides a Western lifestyle .
While in Erbil I moved between these worlds. My hotel was directly below the citadel, and definitely not a place for women (not my point of view, but social consensus). A bed on the terrace or in the hallway outside the rooms cost 5,000 Iraqi dinars (about 4 USD), including half-hourly wake-up signals starting at 5am. Most of my time I spent in the vicinity of the city center. It is very easy to move in these circles as man, one is frequently invited to a tea and involved in mostly short simple conversations, because of the lack of a common language.
On my second evening I met with three local couchsurfers (Leah, Joe and Akam) for tea. I am very grateful to the three that they have spent some time for a deeper conversation. The extensive knowledge of Joe concerning Central Asia will be beneficial later on.
After I had bought my bus ticket for Iran, I spent the majority of the third day around the city center of Erbil. In the evening I had arranged to meet Leah for my last beer before the dry season (Iran). We met in Ainkawa and as my taxi driver did not know the place and was not willing to ask someone for directions, I could take a superficial impression of Ainkawa.
The lifestyle is westernized: single-family houses, playgrounds, restaurants, bars and coffee shops. In my opinion, the place looks very artificial and misplaced in Kurdistan. However, I can see its use as a retreat and connection to their own culture for foreigners in Erbil.
I spent the evening in a very relaxed atmosphere. Under the stars I enjoyed cold Heineken and the company of very nice people.
After I had shared a taxi with Leah on my way back home, I arrived to loud Kurdish music and partying people in the park outside of my hotel. The music would come handy later on, when I wanted to climb up the stairs to my hotel, I stood before a locked door. I was banging against the door and someone, who was kept awake by the loud music, opened the door.
The next morning I took the bus to Orumiyeh, Iran. This road is among the most spectacular, I have ever traveled. It winds through valleys and over mountains in a beautiful alpine environment.


My hotel, notice its terrace

My bed is the last one (further pics will be added later on)

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